Yankee Excursion, part two... The Real People...

We got into Old Forge, PA sometime after midnight. Even then I could see that this was a town unlike any I'd ever seen before. Uncle Rod said the population was around 9,000, and this had been an old coal town, set in a sweet little valley, and populated from day one with a variety of new-ish immigrants to the country from Italy, Poland, Russia and outlying America as well. The town was set on sloping hills, with low green mountains cradling it like milk in a bowl. It was all pale cream color too. Everything was a gentle neutral, it seemed. Even the red brick of the old theatre and other downtown brownstone was faded to a blush. The coal mill itself was off-white and aged through to tin in places. Uncle Rod said that the down was divided into familial and cultural areas. There was basically a protestant 'side', over the river, nearer the mill, and then a catholic side with miniature neighborhoods of families from all over Europe and beautiful churches for each sect. The Polish and Russian churches were 2 blocks from Ally's grandmother's home. We parked, and there in the midnight, straight ahead of us on a slight rise, was a huge white virgin grotto, lit by pale globe lamps and standing next to the white wooden church. The statue of Mary must have been 12-15 feet tall? Larger than life, anyway, and just white, in a white grotto, surrounded by green and brick, and those beautiful globes. To think that one would be able to see such a thing, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. If one were of that particular flavor of Believer, then think how you would feel protected and inspired (and certainly, on occasion, reminded...), and if one were not, then one might be led to be by this peaceful vision. I think one would at least be led to ponder. And that's a wonderful religion unto itself, innit? :)

I was certainly drawn to this place, and this whole town radiated a kind of gentle peace... It could also have been uncle Rod. :) He'd come down from NJ to open and air out the house and basically be there for us to have a stopping place. He was waiting up, of course, and he flustered and fussed in a quiet excited way. Elsa woke up and was so happy to see him. The family resemblance was unmistakable, and Ally had already told me a little about him, and what he meant to their whole family. He is her mother's only brother, and a handsome, older, VERY Italian, old school bachelor who lives to take care of the people around him (all of them, neighbors, church members... I think he was meant to be a priest...) - which he does without bitterness or complaint, in fact with great joy. It was nice to be plopped into his realm so late after such a long day. I got the Italian greeting (cupped face, kiss on the cheek), a quick tour, a pretty little room, permission to raid the fridge in the night - and then a good night's sleep.

They let me sleep in a little while they caught up, and when I awoke there was coffee and a shower, then a little photo tour of the family. After that, Uncle Rod drove me around to see the local churches, since he could tell I was interested, and then we went to the Moosic Diner - which is owned by members of their family. Home fries, hot Italian sausage and crusty Italian bread, good coffee... *sigh* It was a nice way to start the day!

After breakfast we went back to finish loading up the car and head out and I noticed a beautiful old crystal rosary in a dish by the back door (the door the family used and the one facing the church). I picked it up and then discovered that it was broken. It was beautiful, vintage, with a reliquary of Lourdes water. I showed it to Uncle Roddy and told him I'd love to repair it for him. He said it must have belonged to his Mother (Palma) and he didn't even know it was there. He told me that if it could be repaired, I was welcome to have it, as a memory of my trip! What a perfect remembrance of that part of my journey! It is, without a doubt (second only to the memories) my favorite souvenir from this trip. The new hat is a distant third. :)

We said goodbyes to Uncle Rod (though Ally would see him again the next day for the wedding), and took the farmland backroads for a couple of hours into Ally's stunningly beautiful hometown of Skaneateles, NY. We checked into the Birds Nest Motel on the main drag and then took our swimming clothes and went to Ally's mom's house. They were all-afluster, pre-rehearsal dinner, and so there was a flurry of kisses and greetings, I got a quick tour of the house and lawn, then Ally gave us dinner $ and swim passes and we walked the whole 1/1o mile to the lake/main street. La Principessa and I swam for a nice long while - until closing time, then we dried off and changed, and then crossed main street to order some dinner. I got us both set up (a slice and fries for Elsa and sushi for me!) then we crossed back to the lake side of Main and put our beach towel down near the bandstand and proceeded to picnic while the town band warmed up. The park was packed, the sun was setting, kids were running around, imitating the diving martins who were swooping above... it was delicious. The band played an 'around the world' theme, so there was a Rampart St. march, and Spanish Lady, and some Abba (a medley, in fact, from 'Mama Mia'), and best of all - the Liberty Bell march - better known as the Monty Python theme! People sat on their boats and listened and all the children danced. They sold raffle tickets and there was a flurry of excitement between sets as numbers were called out. The Skaneateles Town Band finished just in time for everyone to turn their attention to the sunset. I took lots of pics, let Elsa run around until I knew she was done, then we headed back to the Birds' Nest to roost for the night.

...to be continued!